WA 93 The 2008 Barolo offers a pretty succession of savory notes that span from bresaola and cigar box to dried fruit and prune. Despite the apparent, and beautiful, evolution of tertiary aromas on display, the wine continues to ooze with life and vitality. The silky, fine nature of the tannin is especially enjoyable. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. ML June 2013.
Wine Enthusiast 94 points, Wine Spectator 91 points.
Individual Gift Box. WA 93. The Borgogno family is one of the dynasties of Barolo and traces its origins in the wine trade back to 1761, making it perhaps the oldest house in the entire zone. The approach, until recently, has been – understandably – ultra-conservative, at times resembling virtual immobility, but things seem to be loosening up in recent years and the Riserva wines are well worth looking for. The 1998 Barolo Classico Riserva, in fact, is outstanding, very sizeable in its expression of the roses, resin, plums, and anisette of Nebbiolo and endowed with a powerhouse palate, very rich but round and velvety as well. The fruit,...
Individual Gift Box. WA 91 The estate’s 2003 Barolo Riserva is a wine made in the older Borgogno style, which is to say it is quite rustic, and not in the positive sense the term can be applied to some wines. The aromas and flavors are on the forward side. Worn-in leather, tobacco, licorice, tar and spices add complexity to dried cherries and red stone fruits that are already a bit faded. Some of that is a function of the year, but I sense some less than perfectly clean casks here as well. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. AG Oct 2011.
Individual Gift Box WA 93 The 2004 Barolo Riserva emerges from the glass with layers of fragrant red berries, flowers and spices. It, too, is representative of the year. Silky tannins frame the perfumed, expressive fruit through to the finish. This is an especially refined style for Borgogno. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023. AG April 2012
Individual Gift Box WA 92+ The 2005 Barolo is terrific. This is one of the darkest, richest and most intense young Baroli I have ever tasted from Borgogno. Dark cherries, smoke, licorice and tobacco are some of the nuances that emerge from this muscular, powerful Barolo. Despite the wine’s massive fruit, it remains a firm, classically built wine with chewy, dusty tannins that needs many years in bottle to come together. Still, it is impressive at this stage. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. AG Dec 2010.
Individual Gift Box James Suckling 95, Wine Advocate 94. The 2006 Barolo Riserva is also impressive with a streamlined and elegant feel enhanced by pretty accents of dried flower, tar, spice, cassis and black pepper. There’s a delicate and mysterious aspect to the wine that keeps your attention focused. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. ML June 2013.
Wine Spectator 93 points. Barolo. Deep ruby and still youthful looking. Very closed and tight. Round and mellow, and not showing more than that for the moment. A little enigmatic, but with a supple and well-balanced palate and a ripe, tannic charge on the finish. Powerful yet balanced. (WS Walter Speller)
Individual Gift Box. WA 92 I tasted the 2010 Barolo Riserva just a few weeks after the wine was bottled. Fruit is sourced from the three main vineyard sites farmed by Borgogno—Liste, Fossati and Cannubi—and assembled after vilification. The Liste cru is represented by the largest percentage in the blend. The wine is taut and aged with budding tertiary character. There are dried fruit aromas with smoke, cured tobacco leaf and tar. The mouthfeel shows smooth integration of both tannins and acidity, but the finish is very dry. This is a common characteristic I found across the three Barolo Riservas tasted here. ML Jul 2017.
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