Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2024 (Huon Hooke 96)

Bright medium-depth yellow colour; bread dough and fresh pastry aromas at first sniff, then lemon and subtle grapefruit emerge, a trace of fresh picked herbs, all of this translating onto the palate which is delicate and refined, marvellously fresh and vital, trim and yet intense, seemingly low-alcohol and light on its feet, suggesting earlier harvested grapes. A superb chardonnay and a triumph from a tricky season. Date: Apr 2025; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $180.00; Drink: 2025-2039; Rating: 96 Points; Huon Hooke; The Real Review

Tasted as a tank sample (bottling was imminent as of January 27), the frisky and wildly aromatic 2024 Kevin John Chardonnay leads with crushed shells and fragrant esters, layers of white peach and pear, green apple and cut lime. The wine is bright, fresh and as yet unevolved, but it shows real length and persistence through the finish. Hailing from the hottest, driest and earliest vintage in Margaret River's history, the freshness in this wine is testament to the resilience and balance of the dry-farmed vineyard in Wilyabrup. The wine will be released later this year. 13.9% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Date: Mar 2025; Drink: 2028 - 2044; Rating: 94-96 Points; Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

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