Delamere Vineyards Chardonnay 2023 [JH 96]

Pale straw. White peach, grapefruit and nectarine with soft spice, struck flint, white flowers, almond meal, nougat, lemon curd, crushed stone and oatmeal. A little more concentration than the 2022 release but man it's all tension and release; initially tenses like a spring before releasing with just a squeak of phenolic texture and racing long, true and stony pure to its savoury endpoint. I recall James telling me that good chardonnay is all about drive – ticking all the boxes here. 96 points.

Dave Brookes

Published 30 August 2024