Mulline Single Vineyard Portarlington Chardonnay 2021 [JH 95]

Hand-picked fruit, pressed to barrel for wild-yeast ferment; matured 7 months in (30% new) Austrian oak. Not an easy wine to pin down. Is it the Austrian oak? Like previous releases it is complex, firm in structure and carries its maritime credentials proudly, with an intriguing sea-spray quality. Lemon rind, grapefruit, rock pool, green apple and melon introduce the wine, the citrus theme running through to the lemony, brisk acidity that fully wakens the tastebuds. It's just stirring to life and most assuredly, it's a keeper. 95 points

Jeni Port

Published 04 May 2022